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eating seasonally: late autumn, early winter

Eating seasonally starts with knowing what’s in season.

Maybe it sounds like I am being redundant or saying this while looking down my perfectly nourished nose. Neither of these is the case.

It’s not as easy as it seems. When I first put myself up to the challenge of learning to eat with the seasons some decade ago, it became a wild ride in consternation, frustration & ultimately found myself feeling maddeningly bamboozled by my local grocers. I wanted to support diversity & the grand potential of our agricultural offerings and was greeted with a staggering display of sameness.

Your local grocery store chain may carry a seasonal display of butternut, acorn & spaghetti squashes, all arriving at the same week just after the Halloween pumpkins. And they are large. Uniformly so. The same large, stuffable squash specimen they will continue to be until they are cut-off by truckloads of strawberries in early spring. Too early, Spring. (there’s no such thing as a ripe strawberry in March, or at least, not in our hemisphere.)

It’s hard to know what is genuinely in season when year round we are entreated to the same array of: red bell pepper, green bell pepper; red cabbage, green cabbage; zucchini, asparagus: sometimes thin, sometimes thick; red apples, green apples.

Brown potatoes, red potatoes, sweet potatoes. Basically, that’s what you get, with the occasional variation. These variations usually accompanied with the springing up of paperboard signs telling you not to forget to reserve your turkey, your gefilte, your ham. It’s hard to know what is genuinely in season when our grocery stores have traded in the sometimes temperamental timeliness of nature with the rolling calendar of their advertising outputs.

When a person decides to try & eat seasonally, we are left trying to piece it all together with vague recollections of specific ingredients enjoyed some distant August ago. Or at the celebratory holiday spreads from Independence Day to Thanksgiving. However, really, many of us have been lead astray by a universe of grocery store mono-culture.

So, I guess, today I am here to say, don’t give up. If you’re even remotely genuinely interested in seasonal food, sustainabality, agricultural diversity, local food, the healthiest most delicious food available, whatever your motivation: don’t give up. There are trained chefs that don’t know what’s in season, I promise. Your local farmers market is the best place to start. Even if you can’t find one, which many of us cannot, use your dollars to support produce in season wherever you find it.

Below you’ll see a list I’ve compiled of seasonal foods. Just know that I am working with a broad guideline because we all live in wildly different regions & seasonality is known to change with even the teeniest microclimate. What is in season also has so much to do with what the farmers in your region practice, or shipping companies, it all depends. I don’t make judgments, I can attest to a great appreciation on occasion for kiwi fruit & exotic mango varieties.

I also happen to live in a state that has multiple growing seasons per year, so it can be a bit dizzying. Without the marching band precision of seasonal change, it can be hard to track the passage of time here in Southern California. Though, if we care to, we can trace the lineage of a year by the meals that grace our tables night to night, from month to month. Or at least, that is the sort of meal-driven utopia I am striving towards.

The table I have put together for what is in season for the next few weeks. Some things are hugely dependent on your region. Like say here, in California, we don’t have quince. I miss them. Stewed, poached, compoted & chutneyed, I miss that knobby fruit. Although, here have grapes. Actual grapes. Sweet delicious grapes for a few more weeks. And, did you know that meat has a season? It does. Turkey. Prime Example.

In any case, I hope this helps. And I would really love to hear from you what you see in season in your region & what you love to make with it all. We’re heading toward weeks/months with such lean offerings, we all need a little inspiration. Right now, my favorite thing from the list below is garlic mashed rutabaga & radicchio, charred then drizzled with honey & vinegar.

seasonality chart: late autumn/early winter

(click here to print!)

fruit:
apple
blood oranges
coconut
cranberries
dates
fig
grapefruit
grapes
meyer lemon
oroblanco
papaya
pears
persimmon
pomegranate
quince
tangerines
vegetables :
bok choy
broccoli
brussels sprouts
cabbage
cauliflower
celery root
chanterelles
chicories
daikon
fennel
garlic
kale
leeks
mâche
mushrooms
onions
peppers
potatoes
pumpkin
raddichio
radishes
sweet potatoes
squashes
truffles
meat & seafood:
capon
caviar
duck
eel
foie gras
game
herring
lobster
partridges
pheasant
quail
rabbit
shellfish
squab
swordfish
turkey
venison
edible miscellany:
beans: green  & lima
black & pinto
buckwheat
chestnuts
garlic
lentils
most nuts
nut oils
maple syrup
rosemary
sage
savory
thyme
walnuts

salad for the thanksgiving hangover

Holy gluttony, Pilgrims!

That was a lot of turkey. And stuffing. And cranberries. And greens.
And pie. My favorite pair of corduroys can’t take much more of this.

I was the lucky guest at three tables this year. One of them: a day-after leftovers table that introduced me to Brussels sprouts roasted with vanilla and pomegranate. What? Oh, heck, yes. Another was 30+person soiree of with a freaking delicious array of homemade food & a deep fried turkey. The official Thursday affair was a long table filling an entire room with 18 TDay orphans. All of us with family elsewhere came together and put on a stellar spread. I made so much gravy last week.

Yesterday, I ate the last bowl of turkey noodle soup. It was really quite delicious, even if it was my fourth bowl in two days. Having always been a devotee to the traditional turkey noodle soup with thick handmade egg noodles, this year I discovered that mustard spaetzle is the long lost lover of homemade turkey broth.

At some point during lunch yesterday, it dawned on me, mid-turkey spaetzle slurp, this Thanksgiving holiday season I have eaten: 3 turkeys, 4 different kinds of stuffing, 3 different mashed potatoes, 2 sweet potatoes, 3 cranberry sauces & 4 varieties of gravy. One of which was a vegan mushroom gravy that I hope to never cross paths with again. It was weird. It was not homemade, so I do not feel bad dissing it.

That, my friends, is a lot of food. So much food. Moreover, that is not counting the 4 different kinds of pie & 2 varieties of whipped cream. It is unending. I did love the favorable trend of Kale! I have had 3. Three different kinds of braised kale. I have somehow managed to beat my corduroys past their favorable habit of stretching throughout the day & they are now like dexterously acquiescing sausage casing. I ate too much. It hurts.

This is why today I am only eating salad. Thank you. I gathered up all the bits leftover from thanksgiving preparation & made a superfood salad full of greens & pomegranate seeds & the sweet aromatic crunch of fresh fennel. Kale & Brussels sprouts love citrus to help absorb all their super vitamins & minerals, so I used an orange left over from cranberry sauce preparation. This salad is making me happy. Very, very happy. Bright, crunchy, fresh.

My corduroys will be happy for it too. Hoping next time I put them on I won’t be insisting they stretch their cottony borders so much. Besides, I gotta make room for the Hanukah & Christmas chow downs this month!

crunchy greens & pomegranate salad

for 2-4 servings

what you need:
no special tools required

ingredients:
4 leaves curly kale
5 large Brussels sprouts
a large handful of arugula
a small handful of fresh parsley leaves or basil
1 small head of fennel
1 large or 2-3 small radishes
1 small pomegranate, seeds only
1 small crisp apple, cut into sticks
½ cup walnut pieces

for the dressing:
3 Tbsp fresh orange juice
1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
a few Tbsp of coarsely chopped fennel fronds
1/3-1/2 cup olive oil
salt & freshly cracked pepper

how to make it:
-make the dressing:
~*pour juice & cider vinegar over fronds in a small bowl, season with salt & pepper & leave to steep for 15-45 minutes before whisking in oil to taste. Make sure to taste the vinaigrette as you are making it to check for balance between acid & oil, I prefer a tangier dressing

-clean & prepare all greens:
~*kale: remove the fibrous stalk & chop or slice into bite sized pieces.
~*brussels sprouts: trim bottom, cut in half through base & slice into 1/8-1/4 inch slices
~*arugula: chop coarsely if large, otherwise, leave whole
~*herbs: remove stems & coarsely chop
~*fennel: trim green stalks & reserve a few fronds, cut in half through base &  slice into 1/8-1/4 inch slices
~*radishes: trim & slice into 1/8-1/4 inch slices
-peel pomegranate & remove seeds
-cut apple away from core in ¼” slices & cut into sticks
-place all ingredients into a large bowl, scatter walnuts over & season with salt & pepper
-gradually add dressing to coat; taste as you go along

~*if you dare shove another piece of turkey in your gullet, it is an excellent addition to the salad.

apples & thyme: simple syrup

I love savory sweet things.

I know, weird, right? One of my all time most memorable
eating experiences of my life is a scoop of tarragon gelato.

Sweet, without being cloying and just enough herbal to be complex. Perfection.
That excited me, really excited me. Shivered me to the nether regions of gustatory delights. Tarragon & Gelato. Shut up. Not possible…..oh yes. That is sort of how I feel about this here simple syrup.


You see, it all started like this:

N: Do you think thyme would be good in a mixed drink?
R: Totally! Have you ever heard of Farigoule? It’s a thyme liqueur. It’s kind of awesome
N: What do you think it would be good with?
R: Hmm….I dunno, let’s think what thyme is good with…

Apples.
Thyme is super good with apples. Thyme & Apples together in a sparkling drink are apparently the most dreamy thing for Autumn & Winter entertaining.

I have had many a roast stuffed with thyme & apples. A pork loin all rubbed with spices and tied up with a belly full of sautéed onions, apples & thyme. It’s porcine divine, a favorite fall dish. But sweet thyme. Um, why haven’t I done this before?

And can we talk about apple soda? Have you had this stuff? I freaking love it. I discovered as much one fortuitous picnic in Chicago. We picked up our drinks at a local bodega & with a basket full of roast pork sandwiches out in the car, Manzanita sol sodas seemed the best option. And, it was. The Best.

So here we have it, an apple thyme simple syrup. We made a cocktail with a dry Spanish Cava & a mocktail with sparkling cider & a splash of sparkling water. I have been making sodas out of it all week with just a shot of syrup & topped with soda water. It is also good as an addition to a vodka soda.

The flavor extraction works best if its allowed to steep for a few hours up to overnight, so make a batch in advance & pull it out for holiday entertaining. It’s delicious. After a couple of experiments we came to the conclusion that dried apples gave better apple face than fresh. The dried apples make the syrup considerably sweeter, so less is more, for sure. Thyme takes time to infuse, so allowing this to sit over night is the best way to go.

Apple Thyme Simple Syrup

ingredients:
1 cup raw sugar
1 cup filtered cold water
1 bunch of thyme or 20-25 stems
5 dried apple rings

how to make it:
-place all in a small heavy bottomed sauce pan & dissolve sugar over a medium heat
-swirl pan occasionally while sugar dissolves
-once dissolved, bring to a simmer for 5-7 minutes
-turn off heat, stir & steep for 15 minutes up to 45 minutes
-remove apples & most of thyme sprigs, place in a well sealed container & refrigerate
-this keeps indefinitely in the refrigerator

Apple Thyme Spritz

makes about 6 cocktails (depending on the size of your glasses)

what you need:
cocktail: champagne flutes
mocktail: pilsner glasses or tom collins glasses

ingredients:

cocktail:
apple thyme syrup
sparkling wine, I like to use a dry Spanish Cava
apple rings
sprigs of thyme for garnish

mocktail:
apple thyme syrup
sparkling apple cider
plain sparking mineral water
apple rings
sprigs of thyme for garnish

how to make it:
-make sure your ingredients are well chilled
-add 1 tbsp of syrup to each glass
-for cocktail: fill glass with cava up to three quarters full
-for mocktail: fill glass 2/3 full with apple cider & top with sparkling water
-garnish each drink with a sprig of thyme & an apple ring (they are delicious as an after cocktail treat!)

perfect grapes

yes, these grapes tasted as perfect as they looked.

a late harvest bunch from a southern california fruit grower. the winding vines. oh my. its as if they loved that grape so much they had to give it a bear hug.

perfect grapes for being fed. a juicy, floral sweetness with taut skin that when it pops, it makes you swoon for local produce in season.

spiced nut & sweet potato casserole, for your turkey

Oh, my! It’s thanksgiving next week!

If I were a judge at a pageant for holidays, I would have to crown
Thanksgiving & Passover as the co-queens of the World’s Best Holiday Parade.

I love a good holiday dedicated solely to eating, it’s true. Setting all politics aside (which I think is a good idea no matter what when it comes to conversation over the dinner table, but this is for another conversation) Thanksgiving is one of the only holidays we have dedicated solely to the tradition of sharing a meal. It’s harvest time, it’s gonna be winter soon & we’re going to be cold cold cold for months to come. So, let’s all hang out & eat some food!

Okay, but let’s be realistic here. Why do all Thanksgiving recipes have us putting sugar on our sweet potatoes? This is the real riveting politic. Why, when we have a veritable banquet of sugary delights waiting for our belly rubbing, slow moving priandal finale, do we need to sprinkle sugar & marshmallows all over a tuber with Sweet in it’s name? It’s beyond reason. I want my marshmallows in my rocky road brownies, and buttery brown sugar goodness in my pumpkin pie, thank you.

I love Autumn vegetables, rich in color & natural sweetness. While I do still love to indulge myself on cool nights with a butternut squash soaked in sweet cream butter & caramelized brown sugar, I find our fall vegetables to be already sweet enough. I want to taste the natural goodness of it, don’t you? For me, nothing says fall like roasty, toasty walnuts & pecans love sweet potatoes so much, you have to let them be together, forever.

This recipe is incidentally healthy, but whose counting? Most importantly, it is super tasty. It’s got a secret layer of scallions that get all steamy & bright between the rich, creamy sweet potatoes & a layer of lightly sweetened spiced nuts. One of the most fortuitous trends of the holiday season is the proliferation of spiced nuts at parties. I want them on everything, great big fistfuls of warm spicy nuts. Who knew.

You’re crazy &/or unfortunate if you don’t love a good mix of nuts with warm spices on it. It goes without saying then that I would want to dress up my favorite tuber with a heaping layer of them. It literally just tastes like the holidays, like autumnal love. Good gravy. I am starving thinking about this. I gotta go eat the leftovers. My second favorite part of a good Thanksgiving meal!

spiced nut & sweet potato casserole

ingredients:

for anyday 4 servings
8” x 8” or small oval baker

for entertaining 8 servings
9”x 13” or large oval baker

2 ½ -3 lb sweet potatoes
cooking oil

Mix together:
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground allspice
¼ tsp ground cloves
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

¼ cup almond milk

2 Tbsp sesame seed oil

Salt & Fresh Cracked Black Pepper

2 whole scallions

¾ cup mixed pecan & walnut pieces, raw

2 Tbsp pepitas (pumpkin seed meats)
1 Tbsp maple syrup or dark honey*
salt & pepper

*for the Stevia lover in you: 1-2 drops extract w/ 1 Tbsp of sesame oil

5-6 lb sweet potatoes
cooking oil

Mix together:
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground allspice

1/2  tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp or large pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 cup almond milk

¼ cup sesame seed oil

Salt & Fresh Cracked Black Pepper

3-4 whole scallions

¾ cup pecan pieces, raw
¾ cup walnut pieces, raw

¼ cup pepitas (pumpkin seed meats)
2 Tbsp maple syrup or dark honey*
salt & pepper


*for the Stevia lover in you: 2-4 drops extract w/2 Tbsp of sesame oil

what you need:
8”x 8” baking pan/9”x 13” baking pan
potato ricer or masher

how to make it:

-preheat oven to 400°F, rub potatoes lightly with cooking oil & either puncture with  a fork several times or score with a paring knife, i typically score in a long slash down the center or in a zig zag motion
-meanwhile, combine your spices & divide in half.
-combine the nuts & pumpkin seeds & sprinkle half the spice mixture over them & season with some salt & pepper, combine with syrup & set aside
-when oven is heated, bake potatoes on a lightly oiled or parchment lined cookie sheet for 45-60 minutes, until a paring knife slips easily to the center, all the potatoes will not bake at the same rate, so be sure to check them all separately at 45 minutes & take out the ones that are done & leave the others until they are done. when done, allow to cool on a baking rack
-trim scallions & slice whole scallions, white & green, on a thin bias
-reduce oven temperature to 350° F
-when potatoes are cool to touch, peel off the skin & mash the potatoes with the sesame oil, half the spices & almond milk, season to taste with salt & pepper, make sure all is well combined
-prepare baking pan by lightly brushing it with butter, cooking oil or spraying evenly with baking spray
-evenly spread the sweet potato mixture into pan, sprinkle the scallions over the whole surface evenly & lightly press them into the sweet potatoes
-sprinkle spiced nut mixture evenly over the whole pan
-bake, uncovered, for 25-30 minutes until heated through & nuts are beginning to lightly brown

~*note: if you are making this in advance, prepare up to the point where you layer the nut mixture over, cover with plastic & set aside. You can refrigerate it this way overnight, just be sure to pull out the pan & let it come to room temperature, about 30 or so minutes, before you bake it to finish.

for anyday 4 servings
8” x 8” or small oval baker

pomaire ceramics

Pomaire, Chile.
You are home to some beautiful ceramics.

If it weren’t for these perfect little pinch bowls I use for spices
& small ingredients, I would have never known.

I am so in love with these right now, using them whenever possible. They belong to my room mate, who is a native of Chile. She makes some jewelry using ceramic beads from the region. I share a kitchen & table with them that is home to  a small collection of absolutely lovely ceramics from the region. I use these bowls for spices, condiments, to cover my tea while it steeps, whatever is remotely plausible. Something about them, so lovely. Unassuming in stature & color, perfectly weighted with a satisfying texture.

Pomaire, pronounced something like “poh-MA-ray,” is about 60 km west of Santiago. The town is nestled amongst hills that are rich in the clay used to make these bowls. The town is known for its pottery, where it has been a major occupation of the inhabitants of the region since the late 1400′s.

Not until the 19th century did Pomaire pottery become a true commodity for the region, when they began bringing wagon-loads of the stuff to market at the El Cardonal Market in Valparaiso. Since then, it has become a mainstay for most all Chilean homes. It is the preferred pan for the famous Pastel de Choclo, a traditional savory cake of beef & corn. One I may now be only slightly drooling over the thought of recreating as a black lentil & corn cake. Oh, man, I really want to eat that…

In these pictures in particular, I cannot get over how absolutely gorgeous the freshly ground allspice & cloves look in these unassuming little beauties. Thank you, Pomaire, for having such very good dirt.

homemade oat & almond milk

Milk. You, bovine delicacy.

Oh. You. I really want to love you. I really do. But you keep on doing me wrong. I try to rectify our love.

But the fact of the matter is, you don’t love me back. I know you have tried. By making such wonders as 10 year cheddars and sweet puddles of burrata.  Milk mixed whole fat, half & half in my coffee making the most perfect shade of khaki.

I tried so hard to love you that I even dedicated over a year of my life to hocking your wares. I watched you transform yourself into an endless array artisan cheeses that I lovingly tended. Trimming, wrapping, trimming, breathing, presenting. I learned so much about culture, both dairy cultures & the human cultures that surround great cheeses.

I learned a lot, also, about how not good for this body milk does. My cholesterol: through the roof & up to astral universe. Digestion, eh, sluggish. Sinuses, wrecked. I can still feel the faint flutter of my cholesterol threatening from my arteries & the bloated belly that, you know, it’s just not cute.

I am not alone. There are a lot of us that don’t do dairy well. Let’s be honest, soy milk is not the best & only alternative. I just really don’t like the legume appeal of it in my coffee. I have come to love almond milk, though it curdles & separates too readily in hot liquids. And while I know this doesn’t mean it tastes bad, it just looks gross. I once had oat milk that I loved. Why not mix them? Why does no one do that?

Then I realized I always have these cravings to have a bowl of oatmeal. And it is always just that: A Bowl. I never finish the whole box. I decided to make my own oat milk, why not?  And you know what? I really, really like it.

It is a very versatile milk. You just have to want to work for it a bit. Its sort of a vegan-ified rite of passage, while I aspire one day to drink milk that I have myself procured from either a cow or goat, for now, I am happy to say I can make my milk from scratch.

Its incredibly healthy, also, but that is a mere bonus. Because it is made with rolled oats, it thickens nicely, so it works beautifully in recipes that straight soy or almond milk will not. I get my little almond & oats fix for my health. And I can save my lactic moments for a sumptuous piece of excellent cheese or a perfect scoop of gelato. Let’s face it, these are far better show of dairy power.

Sometimes I  make it every week, sometimes not so much, but when I do, I am very glad I did. This week I made it with cashews. Also, delicious. It takes a day to make & there is something very rewarding about it. I like that it doesn’t have any added sugars or creepy binders. And I like that it’s as satisfying to make as to drink.

I like that I can flavor it however I want to. I like that I don’t have to worry about how the cow was treated. I like that my heart is happy with it. I like that I get to have a delicious cup of coffee tomorrow morning with oat & almond milk. And maybe next week, I’ll have oat & pecan milk. Endless.

home-made oat milk

what you need:
pourable storage container
a good blender
fine mesh strainer
flexible spatula
patience

ingredients:
1 1/4 cup rolled oats, preferably organic
1/2 cup raw almonds (or cashew, or walnuts, or cooked brown rice, even)
3 cups cold, very clean, filtered water
optional:
-1/2 tsp sea salt
-1 Tbsp agave, honey or maple
-cap-full of great vanilla

how to make it:
- if using any optional flavorings, dilute those in the water
-put oats & nuts in clean glass or re-usable plastic container
-pour cold, immaculate water over, and seal container
-leave to soak for 8-12 hours, if it is somewhere that it can get direct sunlight, cover it with a cloth to block light
-once soaked, use a slotted spoon to lift all of the solids into the workbowl of your blender
-puree on the highest setting, add a little liquid as needed, it is best to start with a thick sludgy texture so you can get it pureed fine enough, blend anywhere from 5-10 minutes in intervals, scraping sides & stirring as needed, until you get a thick wet puree
-gradually add water & blend until very viscous, almost like a pureed soup.
-over a medium bowl, strain the milk through a fine mesh strainer in batches, be sure to press firmly on the oats to get all of the liquid out.
-you can either discard the solids or eat them*
-adjust thickness of milk by adding water if it’s too thick.
-this will keep up to 5 days, refrigerated & sealed

* i have made the leftover solids into a breakfast cereal by simmering it for a few minutes with slivered almonds, some honey & milk over a medium-low heat for a few minutes. i have also dried it in a low oven & folded it into pancakes like oat flour. i store it in the fridge. it is also good dried used as a binder for turkey burgers. still experimenting with the stuff.

it’s good to say thanks

With thanksgiving around the corner,the word thanks is swirling in the air.

Thanks, thanks, thanks, a word caught up in the gusts of the autumn winds like colored leaves and cranberry sauce recipes. Thank you.

A simple two words that maybe we don’t say enough.  A simple two words that is always a welcome gesture. A gesture that is as good for the person giving it as receiving. There are very few things in the world with that power.

We all have highs & we all have lows. We seem to think it’s only appropriate to say thanks when things are riding high. I have learned that’s not always the case. I was once passed down some sage advice by a very classy woman:  if you find yourself feeling kinda low, kind of hating on stuff & wishing it were different, that is the perfect time to say thanks. Think of all the people that have done something, whether intentional or no, that made a difference, big or small. And set aside the time to sit down to write a few thanks you notes.

There is really no time limit on thanks. You can say it years later, if you must. I mean, sooner is often the best idea, especially with things like gifts and good interviews. Though there are certain things that take a little longer to sink in and if its made you feel thankful, let someone know, don’t keep it to yourself. It means that you were paying attention. It means that you care, it means you remember. It also means you can have a moment to reflect on what is truly good & beneficial in this world.

I need to clarify that I don’t  necessarily mean just the sort of thanks that you say when you are asked. You know before digging into the turkey and gravy when someone invariably asks everyone to say what they are thankful of that year. That, actually, just always really makes me uncomfortable. I don’t know why. It just feels weird.

The same kind of weird that campfire songs make me feel. I mean, I’ve been around for a while, and yeah, still can’t do the campfire songs. What I mean is sincere thanks. Like for good friends, a shoulder offered, an unexpected gesture, the love of family & dedication. Thanks for supporting me and believing in the value of what I have to offer, even when sometimes, I am not so sure of it myself.

As with all things worthwhile, I also believe that thanks can be personalized, stamped, sealed & delivered. Email is great for a lot of things, but how much do we all love to receive a piece of mail? Especially one decorated just for you. I encourage you to remember all those little things you are thankful for. Fill the air with gratitude. We could all use it. When was the last time you reached out to say thank you? When was the last time you got that warm, full up feeling from someone taking the time thank you?

hooray for little sprouts!


You know how there
was that awkward kid in school?

The one for which “the ugly duckling” was dreamed up? That kid who talked to him/herself in different accents in the back row of class? The one that kept a secret stash of eight sided di & “magical amulets” in their cubby?

Or the one that got tall really quick over one summer and came back as a veritable giant on twig legs? Or the one that just never quite fit into the hand-me-downs they were dressed in & were always tugging at some sleeve or cuff or waistband?

I imagine the Brussels Sprout to be that kid of the vegetable world. The mere mention of them makes most people uncomfortable. They see them, then curl up their nose & almost instantly feel the need to point fingers & gather the cool kid wagons to hurl up a big guffaw at Brussels Sprout’s expense.

Really, it’s not the little guy’s fault. It fell victim to multi-decades long blaspheme called American Vegetable Cookery: a.k.a. Boiled, Not Salted. Everything tastes bad like that. Name me one dish & I’ll give you a present. A huge one. Or wait, maybe I won’t give you a present, because that just seems a mean thing to do to food. Boiled, No Salt.

I am an equal opportunity vegetable lover, I even love broccoli when it doesn’t love me back. I used to hate these cute little cabbages. Used to hide them in my napkin or discreetly spit them into my plastic milk tumbler & hop up, first to volunteer to clear the table, a.k.a. Dispose of Evidence.

A good friend of mine whose mother learned it from a healing foods practitioner taught me a version of this recipe. It is said to have magical healing properties. I can dig it. It is a rather genius simple method using fresh orange juice, a dash of tamari sauce & high, quick heat.

I have used this method to make other vegetables, including cauliflower & broccoli, and it always pleases. In fact, I would go so far as to call it The Best Brussels Sprouts Ever recipe. I have dressed it up some with walnuts & fresh parsley, because I love good accessorizing as a rule.

Therefore, in honor of outgrowing awkward phases and finding your own lovely charm, I offer you this delicious simple recipe. It is easily adjustable to feed one or ten, which makes it a great dish for the holidays, see below for holiday preparation tip.

Hooray for Little Sprouts! Long live the Ugly Duckling.

The Best Brussels Sprouts Ever

serves 4

what you need
wide sauté pan w/tight fitting lid

ingredients
½ cup walnut pieces
3 Tbsp grapeseed or other cooking oil
10 small sprouts or 5 medium sprouts per person (20-40 sprouts)
¼ cup fresh orange juice
1 tsp tamari or soy sauce (Bragg’s amino acids will do also)
½ cup filtered water
handful of flat leaf parsley

how to make it
-prep sprouts by trimming the base of any dried up or browning bits
-if the sprouts are larger, cut them in half lengthwise, if they are small, cut an “x” into the base so they cook evenly
-combine strained orange juice, tamari & water
-coarsely chop the parsley
-heat a skillet large enough to hold all sprouts over a medium high heat
-brown walnuts in the dry pan until just brown, about 30 seconds -2 minutes depending on the heat of your pan
-remove walnuts, set aside, add cooking oil to pan & swirl
-when oil is hot, add the sprouts & distribute evenly, leave the flame at medium high heat
-let sprouts char slightly & toss every few seconds to evenly heat
-once bright with little black bits on it, add the liquid mixture & cover immediately
-reduce heat to medium and steam 5-7 minutes, check at 5 minutes for doneness

-once done, they should be easily pierced with a sharp paring knife, but not mushy
-quickly toss with walnuts & parsley & serve
-season with salt & pepper as needed or desired

tips for holiday service:
I know everyone is planning for the holidays. If this were something you’d like to serve as part of your holiday meal, I’d recommend preparing the sprouts to the point just before adding the liquid.
Char the sprouts earlier in the day & set them aside to cool. Do not refrigerate, though do not keep them near the cooking heat either as you run the risk of them turning army green.
About 10 minutes before serving, go ahead and heat your pan then add the room temperature sprouts to pan & add liquid. It may take slightly longer to steam, but not much. Voila, happy dinner.

the osage orange: a fruit you can’t eat

This is an Osage Orange. Or a Bodark. Or a Hedge Apple or Horse Apple.

Okay, so mostly that picture is someone’s legs. But down below, that’s the “orange.” It’s pretty. Pretty Weird. Weird Pretty. It’s that sort of ugly pretty.

It’s not an orange. It’s not even really a fruit, orange nor apple. Rather, it’s  a bunch of fruits inside a big bumpy green thing that makes your hands sticky no matter how barely it may get bruised. But it doesn’t stop you from always, always gathering them in Missouri in fall.

That’s where this one is from, Missouri. St. Louis, Tower Grove Park, to be exact. My girlfriend made a little homage to autumn with it on the cement by the pond that is built to look like a ruins. It was built sometime in the late 1800′s. Speculating that all kinds of folks were going to be walking through the area, there’s a ton of really beautiful things built up in the late 1800’s over there.

It’s funny because I have totally completely not thought of one of these fruits in somewhere near a decade, but then there it was: pale green & somehow weirdly magnetic because the green of it is just so damned pretty. Memory snaps you back.
I instantly curled my nose. Gross. Like a 10 year old, my instinct: eew, those things are gross. Yet I still went straight over to pick it up. I was totally magnetized by the prettiest green toady looking weird fruit laying over ripe in a pile of fallen leaves.

Once in my hand, I remembered. Eew, gross. Because they are super sticky & it totally sucks when one of them comes careening toward the gradeschool you playing & flailing around in a pile of leaves. More than likely that hedge apple/osage orange has come soaring from the hands of a neighborhood boy known also as “That Little Shit.”
That Little Shit, who is now running off snickering to their cover behind the hedges with his friend, You Jerk.

That was then & this is now. So, I picked up this weirdo lumpy beautiful thing & my hands immediately got glued by milky sticky juice & it smelled instantly of the faintest most florally pleasing scent of Orange. Pretty. That sap, it turns white on contact with air, it also is a base for natural latex. Weird.

It is commonly called Osage Orange because it grows in a region historically known as the home of the Osage Nation. Also known as the part of the country where I grew up, just like me, it flourished in moist rich soils of river valleys. These fast growing, sweet scented trees were prized for making the war clubs and bows of the Osage People. Bois d’arc, Bodark. Highly prized then as it is now for making tool handles, the hard, dense, yellow-orange wood is strong but flexible & polishes up real nice.

In 1804, Meriwether Lewis sent some samples of the wood to President Jefferson from the garden of Peter Chouteau, a founder of St. Louis & Indian agent who spent a lot of time around the Osage People. In 1934, FDR rediscovered this useful tree & put it to work for an ambitious soil erosion solution throughout the prairie lands. Using WPA dollars to empower out-of-work folks, over 18,000 miles of wind-breaking hedges were planted.

The densely growing trees also have crazy huge thorns that create a nearly impenetrable fence, they had been favored before the advent of barbed wire. I can attest to the size of these thorns: I still have a piece of one of these thorns in my hand from this one day when I was shaking rain from the leaves of a tree onto my friends head. I guess I had it coming.

The Maclura Pomifera (it’s real name) is also known to be a natural spider & mosquito repellent, which will be news for my friend Joy should she ever find herself playing in a pile of Horse Apple leaves. While the fruit is sticky, lumpy & weird, I suppose I can grow up. No longer will my reaction to the Osage Orange/Horse Apple be “Eeeww!” it will now be, “Wow, who knew.”

Oh, yeah, but don’t try to eat it, it will probably make you puke.