baking Archive

great friends: grapefruit & vanilla, rosemary & almonds

When we are lucky enough to have great friends.

We should make them delicious things, because sometimes words can’t express how much they mean to us. And sometimes, we should write them a letter.

Dear Vanilla Sugar,

Thank you for being a friend.
It’s true that we’ve  traveled down that road and back again.

You’re heart is true, you’re a pal and a confidant. And if you threw a party, invited everyone you knew, or even just a few of us. You would see the biggest gift would be from me and the card attached would say, Thank you for being a friend.

Okay. So mostly I didn’t actually write that. Andrew Gold did for a really great t.v. show who’s name escapes me…you know, the one with all those plucky hilarious old ladies. The one where I am probably Gladys, a few of our friends are definitely Blanche; we won’t say, but will always secretly know who is Rose, and well, you’re definitely Dorothy.

Well, let’s just say if you updated your Facebook status that you were craving a good old fashioned spaghetti and meatball dinner, I’d braise  it for you, with delicious heritage meats in red wine & a slow cooked tomato sauce. And I’d make you a super fancy farmer’s market salad, brightly colored with carrots, watermelon radishes and a homemade herb yogurt dressing. And I’d make a winter fruit dessert worthy of many salivating daydreams.

Because you love fruit dessert. And I love you. You are a super amazing friend to me & have done things to support and look out for me that fill me with endless gratitude. You know, like the kind of gestures that sometimes actually make me tear up at how lovely you are. And at how you seem to find an endless wellspring of patience & appreciation.

You have listened to me so many hours and even when I was probably being a total jerk, you’ve been one of the most incredibly accepting, loving, inspiring friends I’ve had in a good long while. You make me want to be a better person, that’s such a gift. So, naturally I would want to spoil you for your birthday.

It seems the most nuanced friendships start with unlikely pairs, unexpected serendipitous dances of each other’s best & worst qualities. Qualities that become colorful and well rounded; no longer awkward, but instead become inspiring & supportive. Like how the almost metallic sting of my nature becomes a subtle structure to hold your robust floral acrobatics.

Great friendships like rosemary, almonds and sugar, how they find the most wonderful array of tones in each other. And sweet little ways to resurrect what was once a bad situation. Like the first time I overworked biscuits when I was younger, but now know that I can make them into flaky cookies and stack them with layers of good things.

Great flavors together are like great conversations. And isn’t that really why we love being around each other? To share all these great moments then sit in sated silence & rub our bellies. That, my friend, is what a great celebratory dinner is all about. So thank you for being a friend, and for inspiring such great meals in your honor.. I look forward to eating this dessert again soon.

All my Love,
Tangy Grapefruit

Double Decker Rosemary Almond Cookies &
Grapefruit Vanilla Custard

(with fresh whipped cream!)

(click here to print!)

what you need:

whisk
heavy bottomed sauce pan
heatproof spatula
maybe a fine mesh sieve
rolling pin
pastry brush
cookie sheet
a cold bowl & whisk for whipped cream

ingredients:
vanilla grapefruit custard:
¾ cup (vanilla) sugar*
2Tbsp cornstarch
¾ cup freshly squeezed grapefruit juice
1 tsp vanilla extract (or 1.5 tsp, see note below)*
4 large egg yolks
1 stick or ½ cup unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

double decker rosemary almond (biscuit) cookies:**
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
1 Tbsp raw sugar
2 tsp baking powder
7 Tbsp cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
¾ cup half & half or whole milk
1 tsp vanilla extract

topping & filling:
½ cup sliced almonds
1Tbsp  fresh rosemary, chopped finely
1Tbsp raw sugar
heavy cream to brush

fresh whipped cream:
1 cup heavy cream
1 tsp van extract
2 Tbsp powdered sugar

how to make them:
start with the custard:
1.) whisk together the cornstarch & the sugar, make a well in the center of the dry ingredients
2.) add vanilla extract to the grapefruit juice in measuring cup, gently pour the juice mixture into the sugar & cornstarch, whisking from the center  to incorporate gradually while avoiding lumps
3.) put mixture into your heavy bottomed skillet, scraping it all from the sides of the bowl
4.) heat over a medium-low flame until bubbling & sugar starts to melt some
5.) place egg yolks into your mixing bowl, and whisk a few tablespoons full of the hot liquid in, gradually adding more while whisking until you have about half of the hot liquid in the bowl
6.) transfer egg yolk mixture back to the pan with the remaining liquid and bring back to heat over a medium-low flame, being sure to stir contantly and using your spatula or a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom & the edges of the pan to keep it from curdling. You will want to continue cooking this way until it has a nice even thick consistency, about 5-7 minutes
7.)remove from heat & transfer to a clean bowl
8.) sometimes you get a little bit of scrambled egg, it’s a sad story, but hopefully its just a little bit, and if so, strain through a fine mesh strainer into your bowl.
9.) cover by patting plastic wrap into the surface & chill in the fridge while you make the rest

now make the (biscuit) cookies:
preheat oven to 375°F
1.) combine the dry ingredients well
2.) cut the butter into the flour mixture using your fingers or a pastry knife, work the butter into the flour breaking it up into little bits about the size of peas & lentils
3.) create a well in the center & incorporate the cream & vanilla into the flour mixture until you have a cohesive dough.
4.) turn out onto a lightly floured surface & roll out about ¾ of an inch thick. cut into two halves
5.) combine rosemary, sugar & slightly crushed sliced almonds
6.) brush dough with some cream & sprinkle half the almond mixture over one half of the dough, pressing it slightly in, layer the other half of the dough over
7.) cut into desired shapes, brush each top with cream & sprinkle a bit of the remaining rosemary almond mixture onto the individual cookies
8.) place on a cookie sheet & bake for about 10-15 minutes, rotating once during cooking time, basically until lightly browned on the edges & the bottom is a nice rich even brown
9.) allow to cool before serving

make some whipped cream!~
the magic of whipped cream comes with it being cold. Everything should be cold, the bowl, the whisk, the ingredients, so I like to pop it all in the fridge or freezer for a while before I start.
1.) dissolve powdered sugar in cream & add vanilla
2.) using a big whisk with lots of room for air, or an electric mixer with a whisk attachment, whip vigorously, stopping on occasion to stir everything together
3.) continue whisking & stirring until the cream holds a softly arching peak when you lift the whisk up from the bowl

notes:
*I always keep some vanilla sugar on hand to make pastries with & to serve with tea & coffee. It’s not because I am fancy, it’s because I buy vanilla beans & forget to use them  & they dry up, so rather than waste them, I break them up and put them in a jar with sugar, I am continually adding sugar to the jar & also continually adding vanilla beans. For this recipe I used the vanilla sugar and it gave an extra punch of vanilla floral flavor. If you have it use it, if not, you can add another half teaspoon of vanilla to the mix.
**This also works as a single layer cookie. But for some reason I just really needed to make this double decker. I just did, okay.

lavender lemon curd bundt cake, for your birthday

I recently went home to
hang out with family in Missouri.

I frenetically barreled through a week plus of work then came skidding into
airport for a red-eye flight. Just thinking of the days leading up to our departure gives me slight whiplash.

There was a lot on our plate for the weekend. So what do you do for your brother’s 40th birthday when he already has enough green plaid button-ups to take from here to St. Peter & back again? You know, when you’re on a budget & a new i-pad is, well, just a tad out of your price range?

You make him a cake, naturally. And arrange for a surprise lunch with family at a Cajun restaurant because you both LOOOOVE New Orleans and everyone else can just take a beano pill for once & leave all “oh it’s so spicy” and “oh, I don’t know, all those beans” to the curb because it’s Seth’s birthday & we get what we like on our birthday.

Though, what cake? I am halfway across the continent and my trusty notebook with tried and true deserts is long far away. How about a cake kinda sorta based off a cake you made once for which you loosely remember the recipe? Mind you, I am not a lemon dessert girl. Chocolate, dark. Vanilla, real. Cinnamon. Nuts, pecans. Dark Berries. Custard. Chocolate, Caramel Salty. In that order. Every and always. Though sometimes, in the name of all that is delicious and kind, you have to be selfless.

yes, that is bed-head in my hair & lemon zest on my lip. what of it?

Armed with the newly unearthed information that your big brother likes lavender, you make him a lavender lemon curd cake. One with two layers and a fluffy vanilla meringue frosting. That is until you remember that in your family, it is the mom that loves to sleep in late and the daughter that stirs a bit earlier. My plan to wake early & bake a picture perfect cake before 10 a.m. Not so much, my morning was more like this:

As you are gutting the contents of no less than a dozen and a half cabinets in the cleverly designed turn of the century kitchen, you realize that your sense of organization must clearly come from the other side of the family. Not a single cake pan to be found and not because they don’t exist, simply that your mother’s, shall we say, bakeware logic, differs than mine. I keep mine in nested stacks, near the oven say and not but a cabinet or so away from the mixing bowls & spatulas.

You seek but find no hand mixer, though some miracle ferrets out a stand mixer from behind a pile of thermal lunch bags & multi-grain snacks,  udon noodles, clearly the “lunch” cabinet of the house. Then you find a floppy red silicone bundt pan. Then the lemon juicer near the stack of mismatched pretty plates. These later prove very helpful, but not at this hour of the morning.

Okay, phew, it’s almost 10 AM, there’s enough time to make a cake, take a shower & get to the surprise lunch. No worries on the cake pan, now your brother will ring in his 40th year with a Lavender Lemon Bundt Cake. And smiles for miles.

Happy Birthday, Seth! Welcome to Old Age. I am sure it will totally rule.

lavender lemon birthday bundt

what you need:

tiny whisk
ice bath
bundt pan
cake ingredients @ room temp
many, many bowls of several shapes & sizes, okay, like 5
heavy bottomed &/or even walled sauce pan
electric mixer or ridiculous whisk ambition

ingredients:
for the curd:
zest of a medium/large lemon, bright yellow only
½ cup fresh lemon juice, strained
1 tsp dried lavender buds
3 large egg yolks
1/3 c granulated sugar
pinch of salt
4 Tbsp cold butter, cut into 1″ squares

for the cake:
3 cups all-purpose flour, sifted twice, maybe three times
1 Tbsp baking powder
½ tsp fine salt
1¾ cup granulated sugar
½ # or 2 sticks softened butter, brought to room temperature
1 cup milk
1 tsp vanilla
8 egg whites
pinch salt
sugar

for the glaze:
juice of a lemon
¾ -1cup 10x powdered sugar
capful of vanilla extract
a few tablespoons of lavender lemon curd, thinned with lemon or vanilla, if you like


how to make it:

lemon curd:
~* make lemon curd anywhere from a full day to about an hour before you plan to bake the cake
-using a small strong whisk, whisk together egg yolks & sugar until pale buttery yellow
-combine zest & lavender with lemon juice
-in a small saucepan, gently heat yolks & sugar over a med-low heat, whisking often, paying special attention to corners of pan
- after about 1 minute, whisk in lemon juice & bring to heat, about 2 minutes, whisk gently
-allow to heat together gently over a medium-low flame & begin to thicken, gently whisk, bringing edges into center, try not to let it bubble as it can cause curdlin
-begin dropping in butter a few cubes at a time, whisk gently until butter is melted & combined
-continue to add butter a few tablespoons at a time allowing curd to heat & gently thicken between additions
-stir thoroughly until even & desired texture, this recipe calls for a pourable curd
-thicken by simmering longer, thin it out with gently whisking lemon juice or warm water
-if you get any, shall we say, solids, don’t fret, strain it through a fine mesh strainer while its still warm
-I personally like the little bits of lavender & lemon zest in it, so I don’t strain it if I don’t have to
-transfer to a small metal bowl & stir to cool
-if you need to speed up cooling, make an ice bath: put a large handful of ice cubes & some cold water into a second bowl & set lemon curd bowl over it while you stir, don’t let the cold water get into the lemon curd or else you will be totally bummed
-cover with plastic wrap by pressing wrap into surface of lemon curd & set aside, keep in refrigerator, well sealed, for up to 24 hours

the cake:
Preheat oven to 350°F, place a rack in middle of oven
three bowls: one smallish, wide mouth: dry  ingredients
one medium-ish w/room for hand whisk, preferably wide mouthed
one medium/large w/high sides for meringue

-sift dry ingredients into a bowl, whisk together & sift again
-cream butter & sugar to light & fluffy, gently whisk in milk & vanilla
-whip egg whites with pinch of salt on medium-high until bubbly, reduce to medium, whip until there are tight tiny bubbles
-add sugar & continue whipping on medium until a firm peak holds when wire whip is lifted, set aside
-mark meringue into halves & dry ingredients into thirds
-prep your bundt pan: using the paper from the butter, spread a layer of butter over entire interior of pan, use brush to go over completely, using scant handfuls of flour, coat the pan, gently rotate & tap to spread flour evenly
-if there are large empty spots, use butter to spread fat, then tap flour around again
-gently sift or sprinkle a third of dry ingredients over butter & fold in half of whites(meringue)
-repeat. each time you fold in whites, you just want the foam to just distribute evenly through, but not disappear, then repeat till just combined
-take lemon curd from fridge & stir well (loosen if needed)
-Pour ½ to ¾ of cake batter into pan, using a non-stick spatula, spread top evenly & then evenly distribute lemon curd (be sure to save a few tablespoons of lemon curd for final glaze)
-evenly pour over remaining batter, gently shake & settle all down into pan