kitchen tips Archive

for the brussels sprouts converts, i love you.

Brussels Sprouts are on the rise. It’s true.

They really have all the trappings of a little star, cute diminutive, round little rose shaped buds of cheery green.
The germans call them Rosenkohl, rose cabbage. Cute, right?

They are showing up on menus everywhere & in my own personal travels to potlucks & dinner parties, they are showing up all the time.

Today I want to say, Brussels Sprouts Converts: Good Job! Way to stare a childhood fear in the face and take it down in a roasting pan!

Most people exclaim such vitriolic devoted hatred for this little member of the brassica family. Though when you ask calmly and patiently, why? What did the cute little cabbage things do to you?

“My mom boiled them & they smelled gross & were army fatigue green & mushy. And I hate them.”

Well, there you have it. Who does actually like over-boiled unseasoned anything?

This little morsel of preparation notes is for those of you that are branching out & trying Brussels Sprouts in many new & varying manners. Like say, raw in slivers in a salad or slaw. For this you’ll want to just trim the tiniest sliver off the bottom, cut them in half, lay them on the flat half side then cut them from the top to the base in 1/8″ -1/4″ slices.

Halved & roasted with garlic and olive oil. In the oven or in a pan, with bacon and shallots or orange juice, tamari and walnuts. Simply trim the end & slice from the north pole to the south pole.

Or tiny & whole, simply tossed with oil and spices and roasted until tender then tossed with a handful of fresh herbs.The best way to make sure they get cooked through in this fashion is to simply cut a little “x” through the base so that the densest part of the vegetable gets cooked evenly along with the looser top.

Anyway you decide to prepare them, you will be happy you did. The biggest thing to keep in mind with this tiny vegetable is to not overcook them. The only golden rule, Do Not Overcook Brussels Sprouts. They taste nasty. The perfect doneness should have your paring knife slipping into the base of the sprout with a little resistance and the color should remain a rich range of dense bright greens ranging to a yellow-green inside.

Also keep in mind that this is a cold weather vegetable, they just do not abide the heat, so the best time to dive in is from Fall to Spring. Look for bright green, tight little sprouts no bigger than 1.5 inches in diameter. Try to use them within five days of buying them & do your best not to discard the outer leaves, as they are the most nutritious. If they are yellowing, discard those.
Whenever I have to trim them, I use the leaves with either kale or cabbage in a slaw or braise. Brussels Sprouts grow on a stalk between big leaves, so if you’re ever fortunate enough to find the leaves at a local farmers market, by all means, grab them up and braise them!

Bon apetit! Happy winter eating.

eating seasonally: late autumn, early winter

Eating seasonally starts with knowing what’s in season.

Maybe it sounds like I am being redundant or saying this while looking down my perfectly nourished nose. Neither of these is the case.

It’s not as easy as it seems. When I first put myself up to the challenge of learning to eat with the seasons some decade ago, it became a wild ride in consternation, frustration & ultimately found myself feeling maddeningly bamboozled by my local grocers. I wanted to support diversity & the grand potential of our agricultural offerings and was greeted with a staggering display of sameness.

Your local grocery store chain may carry a seasonal display of butternut, acorn & spaghetti squashes, all arriving at the same week just after the Halloween pumpkins. And they are large. Uniformly so. The same large, stuffable squash specimen they will continue to be until they are cut-off by truckloads of strawberries in early spring. Too early, Spring. (there’s no such thing as a ripe strawberry in March, or at least, not in our hemisphere.)

It’s hard to know what is genuinely in season when year round we are entreated to the same array of: red bell pepper, green bell pepper; red cabbage, green cabbage; zucchini, asparagus: sometimes thin, sometimes thick; red apples, green apples.

Brown potatoes, red potatoes, sweet potatoes. Basically, that’s what you get, with the occasional variation. These variations usually accompanied with the springing up of paperboard signs telling you not to forget to reserve your turkey, your gefilte, your ham. It’s hard to know what is genuinely in season when our grocery stores have traded in the sometimes temperamental timeliness of nature with the rolling calendar of their advertising outputs.

When a person decides to try & eat seasonally, we are left trying to piece it all together with vague recollections of specific ingredients enjoyed some distant August ago. Or at the celebratory holiday spreads from Independence Day to Thanksgiving. However, really, many of us have been lead astray by a universe of grocery store mono-culture.

So, I guess, today I am here to say, don’t give up. If you’re even remotely genuinely interested in seasonal food, sustainabality, agricultural diversity, local food, the healthiest most delicious food available, whatever your motivation: don’t give up. There are trained chefs that don’t know what’s in season, I promise. Your local farmers market is the best place to start. Even if you can’t find one, which many of us cannot, use your dollars to support produce in season wherever you find it.

Below you’ll see a list I’ve compiled of seasonal foods. Just know that I am working with a broad guideline because we all live in wildly different regions & seasonality is known to change with even the teeniest microclimate. What is in season also has so much to do with what the farmers in your region practice, or shipping companies, it all depends. I don’t make judgments, I can attest to a great appreciation on occasion for kiwi fruit & exotic mango varieties.

I also happen to live in a state that has multiple growing seasons per year, so it can be a bit dizzying. Without the marching band precision of seasonal change, it can be hard to track the passage of time here in Southern California. Though, if we care to, we can trace the lineage of a year by the meals that grace our tables night to night, from month to month. Or at least, that is the sort of meal-driven utopia I am striving towards.

The table I have put together for what is in season for the next few weeks. Some things are hugely dependent on your region. Like say here, in California, we don’t have quince. I miss them. Stewed, poached, compoted & chutneyed, I miss that knobby fruit. Although, here have grapes. Actual grapes. Sweet delicious grapes for a few more weeks. And, did you know that meat has a season? It does. Turkey. Prime Example.

In any case, I hope this helps. And I would really love to hear from you what you see in season in your region & what you love to make with it all. We’re heading toward weeks/months with such lean offerings, we all need a little inspiration. Right now, my favorite thing from the list below is garlic mashed rutabaga & radicchio, charred then drizzled with honey & vinegar.

seasonality chart: late autumn/early winter

(click here to print!)

fruit:
apple
blood oranges
coconut
cranberries
dates
fig
grapefruit
grapes
meyer lemon
oroblanco
papaya
pears
persimmon
pomegranate
quince
tangerines
vegetables :
bok choy
broccoli
brussels sprouts
cabbage
cauliflower
celery root
chanterelles
chicories
daikon
fennel
garlic
kale
leeks
mâche
mushrooms
onions
peppers
potatoes
pumpkin
raddichio
radishes
sweet potatoes
squashes
truffles
meat & seafood:
capon
caviar
duck
eel
foie gras
game
herring
lobster
partridges
pheasant
quail
rabbit
shellfish
squab
swordfish
turkey
venison
edible miscellany:
beans: green  & lima
black & pinto
buckwheat
chestnuts
garlic
lentils
most nuts
nut oils
maple syrup
rosemary
sage
savory
thyme
walnuts